Done! #OAL2017

 

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My #OAL2017 makes are finished!

The top is Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark’s Rondeur, courtesy of Knitty. I love a curved hem and the waist shaping promised, well, a waist.

Turns out the curved hem + the shaped waist was too much, so I frogged it up to high-hip level. This one might join Date Night in the Multiple Makes Hall of Fame (2011 was a good year for patterns).

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The skirt is a modified take Amy Butler’s Barcelona Skirt. I’ve sewn it before, but it always seemed too flared for my frame…because it was! After reading Dorothy Moore’s Pattern Drafting and Dressmaking, I realize that an a-line skirt is more than a real-life version of the triangle skirt on a stick figure. Different angles work for different hip measurements. Some math is involved.

I drafted an a-line skirt pattern using Moore’s techniques, laid it on top of the Barcelona, and modified the Barcelona to have a hem circumference that is proportionate to my hips.

I’d originally planned to use Kaffe Fassett’s shot cotton as a lighter alternative to denim; I wound up using Pepper Cory’s “peppered cotton” in Chambray because that’s what my local fabric store had. Frays like a mother, but amazingly soft and drapey right off the bolt. The lining is a solid aubergine lawn from Heather Ross’ Sleeping Porch collection.

When I asked the sales-teen whether they had any lawn in stock, I got a blank look. When I specified lawn fabric, she said “you mean like with grass on it?” #kidstoday #harrumph

 

Testing

muslin

 

Lately I’ve been making muslins, with mixed results.

 

 Jalie Vanessa 

I had high hopes for this one and was convinced that I could somehow replicate my beloved Eileen Fisher pants, which I wear at least twice per week year round. Not sure why I thought that a pattern with an elastic waistband, drawstring, and pockets would produce a super-clean silhouette. I blame it on Easter candy.  I won’t be sewing this one.

 

 

 

Deer & Doe Plantain

I love a good scoop neck so I was willing to go through the rigamarole of printing, piecing, and tracing a pattern. Totally worth it! I’ll definitely make at least one of these.

Plantain
Plantain Tee. Photo: Deer and Doe

 

Alabama Chanin A-Line Top

Another winner. I sewed one of these by hand last summer. The knit I used was a little too stiff (even after washing) and I was overzealous in shortening the hem. I still had the pattern, so I gave it another go on the machine.  I think this will be beautiful in a drapey knit (which I’ve already ordered from Emma One Sock).

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A-Line Top. Photo: Alabama Chanin

 

Vogue 1496

I really wanted this to work, to the point of entertaining visions of myself wearing it as I sipped craft cocktails, smug in my cerebral, covertly feminine aesthetic. Sooooo, that’s not going to happen, which is for the best on a lot of levels. Even in the smallest size, no amount of drape will prevent this from smothering my frame without major pattern grading….and even that’s pretty iffy. Alas.

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Vogue 1496

 

Coincidentally,  two weeks ago I also picked up a copy of Sandra Betzina’s  Power Sewing for $1 at a rummage sale. It’s full of dated clothes and timeless nuggets of sewing wisdom, including this:

“Never feel guilty about tossing a pattern. Only 50% or so are worth making. A pattern that doesn’t progress past a pretest doesn’t count as a failure.” 

Thanks, Sandra! And no hard feelings about your V1496. It really is stunning, just not on me.